Robb Davidson Photographymenu
So, these three are my “main” prime go-to lenses. I also have the 14 2.8, but for this blog post’s purpose, I’ll just stick with these three for the examples. Often, people are looking around to find the best lens to get for their needs. In any case, whatever. Basic rule of thumb when shooting portraits or images that you want to “keep as true as possible” you want to use a tighter lens. When you’re outside, keep that in mind that you can always back up and get stellar results. There’s also a happy medium to hit on staying close enough to your subject, solar flares, and wind resistance. I’ll show you the same exact shot and how far I had to back up to get it. HILARIOUS getting these shots.
Here’s with the 35 1.4:
With this, it’s obvious you can see the distortion, the background is still showing actual STUFF, and isn’t really the most ideal lens for doing Erik justice. This is how close I can be, however:
The almighty 85 1.2:
I know I know. I said the longest lens is best. I know. Shut it. This is not only my fav lens to crush the background, but it’s the happy medium of allowing you a good focal length inside and outside, but still getting you little to no distortion. And yeah, you do need to back up a little to get a full length shot. Most of my headshots I’m about half the distance to just crop at their belly button. Yeah, the button.
With the 135 2.0:
This lens is pretty radical is quite cheaper than the 85. I think the 85 is around 2400 or so, and the 130 is just over a grand. SOOOooo yeah. What stinks is that the 135 F stop STARTS at 2.0, and the 85 really starts to SHINE at 2.0. Sooo yeah. Anyway, this is a great lens when you can’t or don’t want to get near people. Whatever, it’s not my problem if you’re scared, pick accordingly. I for one don’t feel the need to ever be this far away from my subject:
Here are the three shots side by side: